Tuesday, February 27, 2007

Some advice

There is an important difference between coming to visit Iceland in winter or summer that most foreigners would have no idea about. That is, when one comes here in the wintertime one should avoid spending lots of time in Reykjavík. In the summer, this city is quite a nice place to be. There's always stuff to do and see and the weather is usually pretty nice (for at least part of the day). But in the winter the studded tires that so many people believe to be absolutely necessary or safe conduction of a vehicle gnaw at the pavement and send tiny particles of road up into the air. These particles join the cloud of brake pad dust (which has a high copper content) and road salt dust that are already forming a low cloud over the city. This smog gets worse and worse as the winter progresses. t's now being discussed more intensely in the Icelandic media because parents are concerned that the children that they send to playschool are not allowed outside during the day some days when the weather is beautiful because the particlate dust is so thick that it will have an adverse effect on the health of the little buggers. I remember going for a walk during my first winter here and being shocked by this.
I grew up in a small Massachusetts town where the air is clean and smog is something that one hears about but only sees elsewhere. I was used to walking a lot there and when I tried to continue that habit, I quickly realized that the combination of a stinging wind and an opaque cloud of road dust makes for a few days of sore eyes and cheeks and an annoying cough. I'm sure that this dust problem is present in other parts of the country to some degree, but it's viciously noticeable here in the capital.
So, if you're planning a trip to Iceland during the winter to avoid expensive air fare or to enjoy a dip in a disgusting dirty pool of hot water and sperm cells (the Blue Lagoon) make sure that you make your hotel reservations in a town outside of Reykjavík (like Ísafjörður or Húsavík).

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